Skiathos, the pearl of the Aegean
By Blažo Guzina,
Under a parasol on a beach sprinkled with diamonds
Skiathos, a small Greek island in the northwest Aegean Sea, is part of the Sporades archipelago, east of the Pelion peninsula in Magnesia on the mainland, and west of the island of Skopelos.
The island has a north to south-western axis and is about 12 kilometres (7 miles) long and 6 kilometres (4 miles) wide on average. It’s best known for its beaches and buzzing, youth-driven nightlife scene.
The 44 km (27 miles) coastline is indented with inlets, capes and peninsulas. The terrain is more rugged on the north coast, with the highest peak at 433 m (1,421 feet) on mount Karafiltzanaka. The southeast and southwest parts have gentler slopes and that is where most settlements and facilities are located.
Much of the island is wooded with Aleppo Pine and a small Stone Pine forest at the Koukounaries location where there is a lagoon and a popular beach. The island abounds with maquis and other lush Mediterranean vegetation, vineyards, olive groves, fig, almond, eucalyptus and oleander trees, amidst 750 species of plants, flowers and medicinal herbs.
The main town is Skiathos, aka Chora (pop. 5,000), in the eastern part of the island, near the airport. Other main settlements are Kalyvia (312), Troullos (158), Χanemos (143), Koukounaries (119) and Achladias (118).
The Municipality of Skiathos includes the islets of Tsougria, Tsougriaki, Maragos, Arkos, Troulonisi and Aspronisi. They are scattered a few kilometres off the southeast coastline and are clearly visible from the town and the beaches.
The island of Skopelos is visible from Skiathos with the more distant islands of Euboea and Skyros visible under very clear weather conditions.
Together with the islands of Skopelos and Alonissos, Skiathos is part of the Marina National Park, home to many rare animal species, birds, fish and dolphins, the most famous of which is the last preserved Mediterranean habitat of seals.
The climate is Mediterranean, pleasant even on the hottest summer days, thanks to the breeze from the sea.
Agriculture is a traditional occupation, especially the cultivation of almonds, olives and grapes. Farmland exists around the major settlements on the island.
There are no factories, workshops or any source of air and environmental pollution on the island; today, the main industry is tourism. Skiathos is considered a fashionable island, but with affordable prices.
Skiathos took this name because, as it is said by the elders, it is located at the shadow of the Mount Athos (Skia – shadow – Athos).
A glance of History
Archaeological findings witness that Skiathos was inhabited since 11th century BC.
In 480 BC, Xerxes, the mighty king of Persia, anchored his fleet in Mandraki (aka Port of Xerxes) during the second Persian invasion of Greece, when his advance was hindered at the narrow pass of Thermopylae, on the mainland opposite the island, by fearless Leonidas and his Spartans.
Finally, Themistocles scored a decisive victory against the Persians in the famous naval Battle of Salamis. If the outcome had been in favour of Xerxes, the future of Europe would certainly have been dramatically different and Ancient Greek literature would most likely have been lost.
In the Middle Ages Skiathos was occupied by the Venetians from 1204 to 1276. A period of Byzantine occupation (1276 - 1453) and a second Venetian occupation (1453 - 1538) followed.
From the middle of the 14th century the fortress Kastro housed the islanders for five centuries (1350 - 1829), when, for fear of pirates, they abandoned the present settlement and secured themselves behind its gates.
From 1538 until the 1821 Greek War of independence Skiathos was under the Turks yoke.
The locals are proud that the Greek flag was created and first hoisted on Skiathos in September 1807, at the Evangelistria Monastery.
Public Transport
There is a regular boat service to the island and the rest of the Sporades islands with departures from Volos and Agios Konstantinos. The boats are operated mainly by Hellenic Seaways using its high-speed Flying Cat vessels as well as conventional ferries.
Skiathos International Airport is at the northeast of the island next to a lagoon and a lowland isthmus separating the island from the peninsula of Lazareta. The airport is served by Olympic Air flights from both Athens and Thessaloniki, while foreign airlines provide charter flights from a range of airports in European countries.
The modern major road runs along the eastern and southern coast. Narrower roads, some paved and some dirt, reach the interior and the northwest coastline. There is regular, and during tourist season, very frequent bus transit from the main town to the many beaches in the southwest.
There are three bus routes on the island.
The core route is from the Skiathos Town to the popular golden beaches of Vassilias, Achladies, Asenlinos and Agia Eleni. There are in total 26 bus stops, with stop 26 arriving at the famous Koukounaries Beach and the Banana Beach in vicinity. This route operates a fleet of five coaches as frequently as five times an hour during the summer peak season throughout the day, but is significantly reduced during the winter.
The second route departs from Skiathos Town, to the Monastery of Evangelistria at an hourly daily schedule, and the third bus route to Xanemos on the north coast with up to six round trips daily, both operated using mini-buses.
Outside the town, besides the aforementioned Kastro fortress and the Evangelistria monastery, there are numerous churches, vineyards, orchards, farms, an equestrian club and a donkey breeding ground.
In recent years, more and more restaurants and taverns have been opened on the heights overlooking the surrounding islands.
The action centres around the town, where bars and restaurants spill onto sidewalks along the old harbour and Papadiamanti Street, the main pedestrian thoroughfare, as well as through the labyrinth of side streets. Between town and the airport there are many open-air, waterfront clubs.
Along the new (ferry) and old harbours with anchored boats and yachts, there are two coastal promenades, between which lies the Bourtzi peninsula.
The promenade along the ferry port leads from the Bourtzi peninsula to the edge of the town, with the bus terminus. Continuing their walk along the bay sidewalk curious plane spotters are heading to the nearby airport runway. The airport of Skiathos has become a destination for those who want to watch from a very close distance the spectacular take-offs and landings of planes. The start of the runway is at coast, and although you shouldn't get too close to the fence because of the risk of being hurt or thrown into the sea by the exhaust fumes of the plane's engines, it is precisely this adrenaline-pumping danger that attracts the most daring. Actually, airplane enthusiasts can do this more safely and comfortably from the aforementioned Bourtzi peninsula, right on the landing path. Since there is a restaurant on the edge of the peninsula with probably the most attractive location in the town, guests, whether they like it or not, also watch the planes in low flight, a minute before landing.
The writer Alexandros Papadiamantis (1851 - 1911),
called the saint of Greek contemporary literature, was born and created in the
town, whose birthplace is now a museum.
The house where the great writer lived and died,
painting by Milena Tomanović
Alexandros Papadiamantis, "The Wordly Monk" of Greek literature,
painting by Dragan Cvetković
The main street, which leads from the foot of the Acropolis hill (bus stop 4) to the promenade in the pier, the most visited part of the town, was named after him.
Sites of interest in the town:
Church of Panaghia Limnià, built in 1837, Church of Tris Ieràrches, Bourtzi Peninsula, Papadiamantis House – Museum.
Sites of interest in the island:
Medieval Castle (Kastro), Holy Monastery of Evangelistria, Old Monastery of Panaghia Ekonistria, Old Monastery of Panaghia Kechrià, Byzantine Church of Christ (in the Castle).
Beaches:
Koukounaries, Lalaria, Banana, Xanemos, Megali Ammos, Achladies, Vromolimnos, Agia Paraskevi, Troulos, Asselinos (small and great), Maratha, Mandraki, Limani tou Xerxi, Kechria, Kastro, Tsougria (island).
Koukounaries Beach
The last stop (number 26) of the city bus line is located in the west of the island near the famous Koukounaries Beach and Banana Beach in the vicinity. Koukounaries means pine cone and reminds us that the beach (almost 2 km long) is surrounded by dense pine trees. It is considered the most beautiful on Skiathos and every year it takes a high place in worldwide votes and ratings of satisfied tourists. The turquoise sea water is crystal clear and the beach is adorned with fine, sparkling sand. The island is of volcanic origin, so the shimmer of the sand comes from tiny crystals, which make the beach look as if it is sprinkled with diamonds. It is extremely visited, which in July and August is a nuisance for long-time lovers of Skiathos due to the crowds, so many prefer to come either in mid-June or early September. It is ideal for all ages and everyone can find something to their taste and desire with various water sports, paragliding, as well as restaurants, taverns, bars and shops. A massage is even offered on site, under a parasol. This is what the Chinese, the staff of the nearby restaurants, do in their free time.
In the beach bordered by dense forest stands out the large crown of a pine tree growing from the sand by the sea. The pine tree is called the Serbian tree, because Serbian tourists are most often under its shadow, usually occupying the place from early morning.
Koukounaries
Koukounaries
In cinema:
Skiathos and its neighbour Skopelos were the filming locations of the 2008 film Mamma Mia.
Bourtzi peninsula and Tsougria islet
Boomerang Island
For years, the most numerous, loyal visitors to the island, who return every summer, have been the British. The British therefore appropriately called it the "boomerang" island. But, as an exception that proves the rule, there are also those who visit it once and never again. Among them, when it comes to the English, the most famous, the Beatles - once visited it. The following lines testify to this.
When the Beatles wanted to buy an island
(Excerpt from the book – Blažo Guzina: The Beatles, My personal fairy-tale story, Or should I say How I got rid of communism With a little help from the Fab Four)
In the mid-summer 1967 diving deep into the ocean of hippie idealism, the Beatles were carried away by the idea of creating their own little hippie paradise, where they could work and compose peacefully. They began discussions about the possibility of buying a Greek island.
To this end, they decided to travel to Greece. George Harrison and Ringo Starr went first, on July 20 and John Lennon and Paul McCartney two days later. They remained in Greece until the end of the month.
When the plane from Belgrade takes the descent line to the island of Skiathos approaching the airport passengers can see two islets in front of the bay and the port. One has a rocky coast and is overgrown with Aegean plants and trees. The other is slightly larger, about two and a half kilometres long and one and a half kilometres wide. It is overgrown with dense forest and there is a church on the top of the hill.
My wife and I regularly come to Skiathos, an island we are in love with and often count the days waiting for a new summer and new vacations, for who knows how many times looking forward to meeting this jewel of the Sporades archipelago again. A minute or two before landing my heart always beats with excitement, as if it were the first time I arrived there. Looking at this larger islet with a small church and trees that seem as to rise from the blue of the Aegean Sea I always recall that the Beatles wanted to live and create there.
They intended to buy this islet, Tsougria.
When they saw it they were at first delighted because this was how they imagined a little hippie paradise where they could meditate without being disturbed. But, in a sincere enthusiasm for the values of Indian philosophy and the oriental understanding of life, in the hippie spirit of freedom to express one's feelings and not to renounce worldly pleasures, among which that of smoking cannabis, they naively and clumsily announced that cannabis should be legalized, as the Dutch authorities would one day do, as the first in Europe.
However, the Greek authorities understood this not only as a reflection of the Beatles' desire to work and create in peace, but also as a danger that Tsougria and Skiathos could turn into islands overrun with drugs and hippies with flowers in the hair. They refused their request and the intention to buy the paradise island failed.
Disappointed, Paul McCartney ironically said after all that the best way not to buy a Greek island is to come and see it. In the end of the day Ringo Starr was the happiest, because deep in his heart he was against leaving England, convinced that it is more appropriate, if they persist with the intention of buying an island, to do it in their own country.
Today, the islet of Tsougria is still uninhabited, and boats depart from the port every day to take you to its secluded beaches of pristine beauty. Among the visitors to Tsougria, there are certainly those who love the music of the Beatles, like the writer of these lines.
Among the visitors, especially from the fashionable circles, it has become a tradition for newlyweds to get married on the beach of Aghios Floros there.
Achladies beach
Seven Steps
And finally, you can't say you've been to Skiathos if you haven't visited a place called Seven Steps. This iconic spot owes its name to fans of cocktails and rock 'n' roll. Indeed, on the footpath leading from the old port to the hill with the Church of Tris Ieràrches, there's a gentle climb in the form of stairs. These are no ordinary stairs, as their seven steps are spacious enough to accommodate a dozen people on each. And the term place doesn't refer to chairs, but to large bolster cushions arranged on the "steps" on which you can sit, stretch out, and even lie down loosely while listening to the sound of rock 'n' roll music from the speakers of the rock café. The staff of the café skilfully weaves between the bolsters and customers' legs, serving them exotic cocktails; of course, for those lucky enough to find a free place. From the afternoon, when happy hour begins, until the wee hours of the morning.
I leave it to the esteemed reader to imagine what it feels like, on a pleasant summer night, to listen to "I Saw Her Standing There" by The Beatles, "The Crystal Ship" by The Doors, "Behind Blue Eyes" by the Who or "Black Hearted Love" by the rock and roll goddess, the magnificent PJ Harvey and John Parish, over a Tequila Sunrise, Grasshopper or a Singapore Sling, while "entire island" passes in front of you.
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